A little history in queer fashion

The Influence of LGBTQ+ Fashion and How It Has Defined Contemporary Style

Fashion has always been an important form of self-expression and has played a crucial role in people’s social and cultural identity. For the LGBTQ+ community, fashion is not just about aesthetics; it is a powerful tool to express identity, break gender norms, and challenge societal expectations. Unlike mainstream fashion, people in the LGBTQ+ community place a deep emphasis on their styles and clothing choices, as these allow them to project who they really are to the world.

LGBTQ+ fashion has evolved over time, influenced by political movements and cultural shifts. In the past, queer clothing was often a subtle form of communication, a sort of secret code to connect and recognize one another amidst oppression. Today, LGBTQ+ fashion has gained visibility on the global stage, influencing not only the catwalks but also popular, everyday fashion.

Queer Fashion and Its Hidden History

The history of LGBTQ+ fashion dates back to the 18th century, when secret gay subcultures emerged in European cities. During this time, men who identified as gay began to adopt more feminine styles of dress as a form of identification and defiance of social norms. In London, these men were known as “mollies,” and they would often gather in taverns and public houses, wearing clothing and accessories that were traditionally feminine, such as lace dresses, fine shoes, and scarves.

Cross-dressing became a common form of self-expression for gay men during the 19th century, both in private and public spaces. Although they faced the risk of being persecuted, events such as the Harlem drag balls of the 1920s and the Arts Balls of the 1950s offered a safe place for those who wished to freely express themselves through fashion. In these spaces, drag queens' use of feminine clothing became a form of parody, subversive humor to challenge heteronormative expectations.

The Rise of Effeminate and Masculine Fashion

Not all gay men of this era were willing or able to dress in feminine clothing. Often, due to societal oppression, many were forced to adopt more subtle forms of femininity. Through the use of light makeup, plucked eyebrows, and other details, these men found a way to express their identity without exposing themselves to the risk of being persecuted. Although effeminate fashion waned with the rise of the LGBTQ+ liberation movement in the 1960s, it remains an essential part of queer fashion history.

For women, wearing masculine clothing began as a way to challenge gender roles and patriarchy. During World War I and II, women began wearing more masculine clothing elements, such as winged collars, jackets, and monoculars. For many lesbians, menswear was a way to express their rejection of imposed gender stereotypes and embrace their identity. However, not all queer women wanted to look masculine, and during the 1970s, a movement embracing conventional femininity began to emerge within the community.

Subtle Signals: Fashion as a Secret Code

For much of the 20th century, the LGBTQ+ community was forced to live in secret, and fashion became a crucial communication tool. Before gay liberation in the 1960s, most queer men and women tried to remain inconspicuous, dressing in a way that allowed them to blend into straight society. However, certain colors and accessories became recognizable signals. The color green, for example, was associated with femininity and had homosexual connotations, while suede shoes and red ties were used in different eras as symbols of identity. For lesbian women, items such as cufflinks, neckties, and short hair also served as indicators.

LGBTQ+ Fashion in the Industry: Designers and Influence

Historically, the LGBTQ+ community has had a significant influence on the creative world, including fashion, theatre, and the entertainment industry. Many influential designers of the 20th century were gay or bisexual, and although many of them remained closeted due to social pressure, they left an indelible mark on fashion. The bold and experimental style of queer designers influenced the way the world perceived fashion, from haute couture to street style.

Today, designers like Christopher John Rogers, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, and Kelsey Randall are bringing LGBTQ+ fashion to the forefront of the international stage. These designers don’t just create clothes, they also use their collections to tell stories about identity, diversity, and liberation. Queer influence has helped popularize the concept of androgyny and gender-fluid fashion, which has helped blur the lines between men’s and women’s fashion, making it more acceptable for straight men to show an interest in style and grooming.

The Role of Social Media in LGBTQ+ Fashion

Social media has played a pivotal role in spreading queer fashion and bringing visibility to the LGBTQ+ community. Platforms like Instagram and TikTok have allowed designers and people in the community to share their styles and creations with a global audience. Queer influencers like Tyris Winter and Ziggy Mack-Johnson have used these platforms to showcase their unique styles, inspiring others to embrace their identity through fashion.

The fluid and ever-evolving nature of LGBTQ+ fashion remains a source of inspiration, and more and more designers, brands and individuals are embracing this free and barrier-free form of expression. Queer fashion is not just about clothes; it is a political, cultural and personal statement that challenges boundaries and celebrates diversity.

Conclusion

LGBTQ+ fashion has come a long way, from being a secret code among those seeking safety, to becoming a global symbol of identity and pride. As society moves towards greater acceptance and visibility of LGBTQ+ people, fashion will continue to be a powerful tool to express who we are and to unite the community. The queer influence on contemporary fashion is evident, not only on the runways and in stores, but also in the way more and more people are embracing gender-fluid fashion and challenging gender norms. Queer fashion is not just a trend; it is a celebration of freedom and authenticity.